January 2010

The holy city of Antioch

Driving into Antakya, Turkey with my friends Jason and Rodney, I saw more Arabic and Middle East influences than any where else in Turkey.  The signs of Humusci’s (Hommus Makers) are scattered throughout the city.  Kunefe, a traditional Arab dessert, was found everywhere, and was some of the best in Turkey according to Rodney who “lived on it” in Iraq. With only about 30 miles between Antakya and the Syrian border, the city is Turkish but with a Middle Eastern flair.

The history of Antakya goes back for thousands of years.  In Christianity, it’s known as Antioch, the city where St. Peter supposedly opened the first church. It is known that Antioch was a place where both St. Peter and St. Paul preached, and where the “Christian” label originated.

“And the disciples were called Christians first in Antioch,” from Acts 11:26.

The Church is little more than a cave.  However, an elegant doorway was installed by the Crusaders who ruled Antioch in the 10th century, along with an altar.  An opening to spring water can be found on one end that is rumored to have healing properties, and an escape tunnel that was used to go through the mountain into Syria also remains.

Now, Antakya is nearly all Muslim just like the rest of Turkey.  However, there are three churches (Orthodox, Catholic, and Protestant) and a synagogue in use in Antakya.  The buildings are located in the city center amidst the other prominent mosques in the city.  According to my Lonely Planet, the city caters to about 1,200 Christians.

We were all surprised to see the Churches in such prime location with bold signs pointing out their locations.  Three large signs with bold letters reading, “CATHOLIC CHURCH,” helped us find our way to one.  In a country where security cameras, steel shutters, and high fences protect most churches in the modern and Western cities of Istanbul and Izmir, it was interesting to see these locations appear to get along better with the city.

What was particularly surprising was where this was happening.  This was Turkey’s “wild southeast.”  In the 1990s, much of the southeast was off-limits to tourists because of Kurdish separatist violence there. The region is still seen as dangerous, and sometimes backward, by some on Turkey’s western shores.

On arrival in Antakya, it was interesting to see that the diversity hasn’t erupted in the hostility that has been an issue in other parts of Turkey.  In fact, everyone seemed to use the tourism to their advantage.

(For all the photos from Antioch and the rest of my trip southeast, check out the photo gallery.)

Christmas in Kayseri

I thought nothing would out do my two Thanksgivings last month, but I found myself in a Christmas marathon last December. And unbelievably, it was in Kayseri where the number of people who celebrate “the December 25^th Christmas” can probably be counted on two hands.  Note: not a scientific or accurate measurement by any means.

I say “December 25^th Christmas” because there’s a need to do it in Turkey. When I informed my students they wouldn’t have class on Friday because of the Christmas holiday, they looked very confused.

Finally, one asked, “But teacher, Christmas is next Friday (New Years Day).”

For those who don’t know, Saint Nicholas was born in Myra, now Demre, Turkey.  He served as the bishop there and is well known in Turkey for his generosity to the poor and to children, as he is around the world.  Turks love their “Noel Baba” and celebrate him on New Year’s Day.  Some take part in the tradition of giving presents to children in honor of him.  In fact, you can find malls and cities decorated with Christmas Trees, snowmen, and Santas during New Years.  Turkey has adopted many of the non-religious aspects of Christmas.

All this leads to their confusion.  Since many Turks, especially those outside of Ankara and Istanbul have little contact with non-Muslims; many assume our Christmas is celebrated on New Years.

After explaining Christmas and its meaning to several of my classes, it was time to begin my Christmas spectacular.  Jeff Turner, a friend and Fulbright from Ankara, was visiting Kayseri for Christmas.  Together, we enjoyed three parties in three days.

The first was hosted by James Patton, another friend and Chinese student at Erciyes.  I first met James last Thanksgiving.  James’ father is American and his mother is Turkish.   He grew up in both Kentucky and Turkey.  Erciyes English teacher, friend, and neighbor Maria Iskenderoglu hosted the Thanksgiving dinner where I met James.  Maria, her husband Orhan, and daughter Sofia were the “guests of honor” at James’s Christmas Eve shin dig.

That night, I had the chance to celebrate the holidays with a group of students and teachers.  In a modest living room, we sat together on pillows and couches to a home cooked meal by James.  Maria brought two wonderful apple pies with snow angel shapes and a Christmas tree built into the crust.  From Turkey to apple pie, it was a delicious way to start the holiday.

Early next morning, Jeff surprised me with the greatest gifts of all in Turkey: bacon and maple syrup! I know Ankara is a great place to buy unusual items, but never thought I was going to see bacon.

“They kind of kept it hidden in the back of the freezer, so no one would accidentally buy it,” said Jeff when I asked how he got it.

We dashed over to Maria’s apartment where a hearty breakfast was already in the making.  Home fries, caramel French toast, and a delicious quiche were waiting.  We added pancakes topped with real Canadian maple syrup and fried bacon.  The smell was heavenly.

During the day, Jeff suggested heading to the top of Mount Erciyes to have a “white Christmas.”  Orhan, Jeff, and I drove to the top of Erciyes where brown foothills gave way to snow topped peaks after what seemed like only minutes of driving.  Jeff skied from the top of the volcanic crater while Orhan and I tried sledding instead.

On our way to the top, we met Sean, a U.S. Air Force officer from Virginia stationed in Turkey.  For a couple hours, we all enjoyed the deserted slopes since everyone else in the city was working. With Americans nearly matching the number of Turks on the summit, it didn’t feel like Turkey, never mind Kayseri.

At night, we were invited to party #2 hosted by Donna Ozcan, another teacher at Erciyes from Minnesota.  Donna, her husband Servet, and three children welcomed all of us for Christmas dinner.   The party had everything you’d want in a Christmas dinner, delicious food, wonderful stories told by friends (some funny, some disastrous), and even a little child drama at the end.  Watch out when you mix one toy, plus two four year-olds!

The last hurrah of my Christmas weekend was when all the foreign teachers came together in Maria’s cozy apartment for the “lighting of the Christmas pudding.”  I never participated in this before, and was excited to see it.  Unfortunately, the lighting happened very quickly, and I missed it!

However, it was great to finally meet the two Japanese teachers, the Russian couple, the Korean couple, and the Bulgarian who all teach classes at Erciyes.  As a yabanci (foreigner) in Turkey, life is sometimes difficult.  For example, the bureaucracy is a mess at times, and for a foreigner who can’t speak the language that can mean long waits with hours of nothing getting done.

My colleague David Bradt refers to it as “the Castle” from Franz Kafka’s book about a man who struggles to obtain legal residency from mysterious authorities that live in a puzzling castle.  Coincidentally, I finally have my legal residency in Turkey after six months of trying to process it.  Normally, it should have been in my hands within a month of my arrival.

Outside of navigating Turkey’s Castle, life has been wonderful and the holidays were special this year.  I’ll always miss my family and friends across the Atlantic, especially during the holidays.  Still, I’m thankful to have so many friends here in Turkey who helped make the holidays seem like home.

Cheers to 2010!

(For all the photos from my Kayseri Christmas, check out “Christmas in Kayseri” in the photo gallery.)